Fez, el laberinto que desafía al tiempo

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Entrada a la Medina de Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA

Reportaje de Alfonso Escauriaza

Nos adentramos en el laberinto que conforma la Medina de Fez el-Bali, la zona peatonal más grande del mundo, para recorrer, paso por paso, su historia, su cultura, su gente, su idiosincrasia. La Medina fue declarada Patrimonio de la humidad por la Unesco en el año 1981 y es, junto con Rabat, Marrakech y Meknes, una de las cuatro ciudades imperiales de Marruecos. Además es la capital del islam de Marruecos y centro religioso y cultural del país.

Rodeada de murallas, la Medina de Fez el-Bali alza en su interior un asombroso laberinto lleno de historias que conforman cada uno de sus rincones. Compuesta por más de un millón de habitantes, la medina abre sus puertas al mundo para mostrar y vender, con astucia sin igual, el trabajo de todos los ciudadanos. Hasta ahí lo que puedo intuir de las páginas de la guía que he ido leyendo durante el viaje desde Londres. Ahora toca ver qué hay de realidad.

Llegar al aeropuerto de Fez-Sais a las tres de la tarde de un junio cualquiera, no es, obviamente, la mejor de las ideas para un país que entre sus fronteras tiene el mayor desierto del mundo, el Sáhara. La bienvenida es recibida con un calor que inunda todo, empezando por la cabina del avión.

Recojo el equipo y realizo el cambio de moneda, lo justo y necesario para llegar a la ciudad en taxi. Pronto empiezo a entender que no estoy en Europa o Estados Unidos: esto es Marruecos y aquí todo se negocia. El de los taxis es un mundo curioso y apasionante por conocer. Comparto el transporte con otros dos “amigos” que venían en el avión, ya que así se puede negociar un mejor precio y, sobre todo, evitar compartir el taxi más adelante con otros. Y es que en Marruecos uno no se sube al taxi y paga su propia carrera. En Marruecos, tú pagas tu carrera y si durante el recorrido pueden recoger a más gente, todos para dentro que compartir es vivir (sobre todo para el taxista, que cobra todas las carreras igualmente). Al principio desconcierta pero luego hasta haces amigos. De todas formas, siempre se puede decir al conductor, si uno se siente incómodo, que no quieres que recoja a ningún viandante y nada de amigos.

Los coches no pueden adentrarse en la Medina, más que nada porque no hay espacio para ellos dentro de ésta (el único “vehículo” permitido son los burros; sí, sí, los burros, aún existen!). Así que me abandonó a mi suerte en “Bab Guissa”, una de las dieciséis puertas que custodian la entrada al recinto amurallado. Ya a pie, nada más comenzar mi intrépida aventura, me “asalta” un lugareño preguntándome si soy americano (la verdad es que sonreí dado que soy español y de los que no da lugar a la duda) y que si quiere que me acompañe allá donde yo vaya.

Puerta de acceso a la Medina de Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA
Puerta de acceso a la Medina de Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA

Declinando la amable proposición, seguí mi camino hasta llegar al lugar donde pernoctaría en Fez. La fortuna estaba de mi lado, pues éste se hallaba bajando la calle nada más cruzar la puerta, por lo que fue relativamente fácil de encontrar.

La Riad en la que me alojé se llamaba “La Bague de Kenza”, una casa con más de 800 años de historia ubicada en el corazón de la Medina. ¿Qué es una Riad? ¿Por qué ésta en lugar de un hotel? La Riad se caracteriza por tener un patio interior alrededor del cual se distribuyen las habitaciones y otorga una frescura que en los hoteles sólo se puede obtener a golpe de aire acondicionado. Escoger una Riad en vez de un hotel se convierte en un elemento clave para integrarse en el ambiente que vamos a vivir con nuestra visita a Marruecos y no ser un turista más.

Detalle del interior de una casa con patio en Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA
Detalle del interior de una casa con patio en Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA

Un té “estilo bereber” es lo primero que me ofrecen de bienvenida. En realidad hay que acostumbrarse a la infusión, ya que la ofrecen en todas las “bienvenidas”. La infusión con la que se elabora el “whisky bereber” (tal y como se conoce en Marruecos) es un té verde y proviene de China, pero el proceso es absolutamente casero. Un buen té, como dice mi amigo Faoud, se realiza hirviendo el té un par de veces para quitar las impurezas y reservando el agua del último para usarlo en la siguiente cocción. Una vez hervido, se retira del fuego y se añade la hoja de la menta (limpia) con un buen terrón de azúcar por vaso. Una vez en la tetera, se ha de servir en un vaso y se introduce de nuevo en la tetera, proceso que se ha de repetir hasta tres veces para conseguir que el té respire y se obtenga el resultado deseado. Todo un ritual. Y, precisamente como parte del ritual, había que subir a la terraza para contemplar la belleza y esplendor de la medina mientras se consume el té.

Tetera y té típicos de Marruecos, en la ciudad de Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA
Tetera y té típicos de Marruecos, en la ciudad de Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA

Después de una entretenida charla con el casero (que, por cierto, habla más de cuatro idiomas), salgo a la calle con la seguridad propia de quien se siente en casa, como si de Londres o Bilbao (España) se tratara, con aplomo. Sin dudar. Pero pronto me doy cuenta de que la Medina no es para inconscientes, ya que este galimatías peatonal no está construido para “Google Maps” (de hecho, es gracioso abrir la aplicación para intentar llegar a algo que ni siquiera sabes cómo encontrar) y los primeros pasos por la Medina se convierten en una auténtica angustia. La sensación de pérdida es absoluta y pronto empiezas a sentir la necesidad imperiosa de preguntar constantemente a todo el mundo cómo salir del aprieto.

Mapa de la Medina de Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA
Mapa de la Medina de Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA

Pero, y he aquí una de las curiosidades de este país, hay que saber a quién preguntar, ya que cuando acudo en ayuda de alguien me piden un pequeña propina. Al principio es chocante para el turista occidental, pero es la forma de entender que debes aprender a elegir correctamente (si no quieres perder todo en pequeñas propinas, claro). Aunque un pequeño “canon” por la ayuda no duele a nadie y más en un país donde el influjo mediterráneo hace que la gente aproveche cualquier excusa para brindarte su amistad. Marruecos funciona así, aunque ésta será una de las pocas constantes que se repita porque cada ciudad dista un mundo de la otra. Eso es lo más fascinante de este país.

Adentrarse en la Medina es aprender la cultura de un pueblo. Al recorrer sus calles y sus establecimientos, empiezo a comprender que no solo es un puesto de trabajo. Que detrás hay toda una historia, toda una vida. Cada mañana, desde el rayar del alba, suenan en los minaretes de las mezquitas las palabras que invitan a la oración y Fez comienza su particular andar. Al atravesar Bab Bou Jelud, la puerta más emblemática y colorida, que da entrada a la “ciudad fortificada”, dejando atrás su refulgente azul, nos adentramos en la calle Talaa Kebira, una de las principales arterias de la Medina, que te envuelve por completo en su particular mundo del “shopping”. A cada metro un puesto de ventas; a cada rincón, una oportunidad para descubrir nuevas experiencias. Desde el cuero tratado en las tenerías hasta las especies más inverosímiles del mundo. Colores que recorren las calles. Los caftanes, chilabas y otros ropajes de mujer forman un hermoso caleidoscopio de tonalidades, al que se suman alimentos y especias amarillas, carmesí, verdes y casi del color que uno quiera.

Las paredes tampoco pasan desapercibidas, ni en fondo ni en forma. Y es que los muros tienen cientos de babuchas (calzado típico árabe) colgadas, que de pared a pared recorren la Medina. Los azulejos y mosaicos que dibujan paredes y fuentes, otorgan una creatividad y belleza sin igual, junto con sus platos decorados, cuya fama se remonta siglos atrás. Tagines, jarras, cuencos, alfombras y qué decir de los calderos en bronce rojo de la plaza Seffarine.

Pero de la misma forma que el hábito no hace al monje, como se suele decir, por muy coloridas que sean las calles no son nada sin la atmósfera viva de las gentes que pasan sus días en ellas. Así, al grito de “balek balek”, verás cruzar los asnos de una punta a otra, abriéndose paso por los estrechos recintos, abarrotados de gente que hacen del mercado un punto de encuentro social de primer orden. De hecho, esta circunstancia me transporta al pasado europeo, en el cual no existían los ordenadores y la vida se hacía en la plaza del pueblo y por sus empedrados, por lo que también paseaban los pollinos. Las mujeres se lanzan a la calle para realizar la compra diaria. Gritos y ofertas, todo fresco y de calidad. Las gallinas aguardan su final pendiente del ojo del comprador, que sin compasión toma su elección y dictamina la pena de muerte al animal que es preparado “in situ”. Impactante.

Hablar de artesanía en Fez es hablar de textiles, cuero y otros materiales y técnicas relacionados con la confección de prendas. Me adentro en sus zocos. Llego a una de las tejerías de la ciudad y me explican que es una cooperativa. Tengo el privilegio de visitar una compuesta por más de 1.350 familias. Uno de sus principales valedores dice que es la más grande de Marruecos. Desde el primero hasta el último, todos colaboran en la producción artesanal y venta del producto.

Todas las prendas, alfombras y demás, se presentan en la cooperativa y ésta se encarga de su distribución y venta a lo largo y ancho del país. Ellos aseguran que no exportan, que todo se queda en Marruecos. Aunque se admite algún encargo personal del exterior. Después de visitar la tejería me ofreció visitar una de las tenerías de la ciudad donde pude observar el proceso de elaboración de las pieles. Toda una experiencia. Siguen un método casi milenario y todos los materiales empleados son naturales, cal viva, salvado de trigo, corteza de árboles… En lo que dura la visita intentan vender cualquier producto, haciendo suculentas rebajas. La calidad está garantizada. Y si decides no comprar nada, una pequeña propina para el empleado de turno evitará que no se disguste y agradecerá el gesto.

La visita a las curtidoras es de obligado cumplimiento. Observar cómo tratan la piel en directo y de manera tradicional no es algo que se puede ver todos los días. La piel se introduce en unas  cubas repletas de excrementos de paloma, que posee una enzima especial que, mezclada con agua y cal, ablanda el pelo. Una vez terminado el primer paso, la piel se traslada a una máquina similar a un tambor, una trinchadora, para quitar la grasa de la piel. Cuando ya está absolutamente libre de cualquier impureza, se extiende en los altos de los edificios de la curtidora y se seca. Una vez seca la piel se introduce en las cubas que tiñen la piel del color deseado, usando aceites y otros vegetales. Una vez realizado todo el proceso llega el turno de los artesanos, que trabajan la piel para darle forma. Dependiendo del tipo de piel, si es de cabra, vaca o camello (que es de gran calidad), se emplea para diferentes finalidades: calzado, tapicería, marroquinería… Es de las industrias más importantes de la ciudad, ya que otorga trabajo a un número considerable de empleados y sostiene a muchas familias. Es sin lugar a dudas uno de los grandes atractivos de la ciudad.

Curtidor desarrollando su actividad en Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA
Curtidor desarrollando su actividad en Fez. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA

La Medina es armonía entre cultura, religión y arte que se entremezclan en un paraíso de Madrazas, Medersas, Mezquitas, fuentes, murallas, artesanía, gastronomía y devoción. Islamismo y Judaísmo. Incluso entre calles, artesanos, caos, niños, burros, y un sinfín de etcéteras, nos encontramos con una de las universidades más antiguas del mundo.

La Universidad de Al-Karaouine fue fundada inicialmente como madraza (es el nombre que se utiliza en árabe para definir cualquier tipo de escuela) en el año 859 d.c. por dos mujeres. La espectacularidad de esta escuela es absoluta. Su interior, sólo accesible para sus estudiantes.

Imagen de la Medina. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA
Imagen de la Medina. ALFONSO ESCAURIAZA

Asimismo, la Medersa de Bou Inania (una Medersa es un colegio o escuela musulmana de estudios superiores, generalmente especializados en estudios religiosos), que fue construida entre 1351 y 1357, es una maravilla arquitectónica y cultural, muestra la grandeza imperial de la que un día gozó Fez. Un ejemplo perfecto de arquitectura benimerín, dinastía de origen bereber que gobernó Marruecos entre los años 1244 y 1465.

Frente de la Medersa se encuentra la clepsidra de Dar al-Magana (que forma parte del complejo de Bou Inania). Es “la casa del reloj” y en la fachada podemos observar “la Magana”, un reloj hidráulico compuesto, al parecer, por trece cuencos de bronce. Aunque hoy en día apenas se puede apreciar cómo era el sistema de funcionamiento es de destacado interés turístico.

De todas formas, el encanto de Fez va más allá de lo visible. Una de las cosas más impactantes, en opinión de un servidor, es la paz que se respira entre judíos y musulmanes. Todos conviven en la Medina desde hace siglos, cada uno fiel a su tradición y su forma de entender la vida. Pero existe y se aprecia respeto mutuo, la buena relación que existe entre ellos e incluso cómo comparten el negocio. Entre calle y calle, entre murallas y fuentes, hablando con unos y con otros, uno entiende que Fez es una historia personal, la que cada uno puede experimentar.

Y sólo al final, cuando a lo lejos se descubre el lugar en el que el sol encontró la salida, al final de la calle Talaa Kebira se encuentra la Plaza Boujload, un remanso de paz en la Medina en la que podrás reflexionar sobre lo vivido en el laberinto que desafía al tiempo.

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